Thursday, July 8, 2010

Battery Desulfator and Battery Charger

A lot have been talked about regarding the 308 batteries that don't last. Many 308 owners here in Malaysia and Singapore suffer from premature death. My first battery went dead, just 7 months owning the car. This 2nd battery has already given signs that its going to have some problems as the car couldn't start 4 days ago. I went googling for a solution and this is what I found.

This is called a Battery Desulfator. This version is an electronic version that does not need to put any  chemicals into the battery. It is said to maximise the battery life span 2 to 3 times and revive dead batteries.

From the same website, I bought a 12Amp intelligent battery charger. Its light and portable as well.

 This is what they have to say about their charger in their website.

"Without the need of bulky and heavy transformers, our chargers are now smaller, lighter and more portable than before. The smaller footprint allows them to be used virtually anywhere. End users will enjoy the savings gained from material cost and logistics.
Our modern high frequency switchmode charger designs, operate at efficiencies higher than 85% compared to the old designs that have typical efficiencies of 50% - 60%. This means less heat is generated and less electricity is wasted.
Switchmode chargers also have stable output voltages, regardless of input AC fluctuations. This ensures that batteries are never undercharged, preventing sulfation, which shortens the lifespan of batteries. In fact, when used in parallel with the Infinitum Desulfator, batteries that had previously failed and were junked due to sulfation can be restored to optimum working condition."



So, I decided to try to do both. This is how I did the setup.
First, I clip the Desulfator on the positive polarity of the battery, its easy, just unclip the red tab, put the wire in and clip it back...
Then, I found an engine mount to touch the negative side since the negative side of the battery is hidden. I saw the green LED light up, that means its working. I am supposed to leave it there for 8 hours.


Next, I attached the battery charger to the same points as follows:-
The orange LED on the charger means its charging. Once it turns green it has reached 90% of charge, it will trickle charge, which means that it will be on a very low charge and the amperes is lower. This type of charger will never overcharge the battery. Its an intelligent charger. This way, I hope that my battery will last longer and I can do the same for the 2 more vehicles I have at home. You do not need to put the Desulfator on your battery permanently, however, if you have only 1 car at home, you can do so. The Desulfator will do its job in 8 hours. 


Lastly, you can buy what I did from this website http://www.batterytechsolutions.com


Pos Laju delivery on the next day, which is pretty fast!

Thursday, June 24, 2010

Engine of the year award... AGAIN?? That is 4 years in a row!!

1.4-litre to 1.8-litre
BMW-PSA 1.6-litre Turbo

“Few engines fit the character of their
subcompact host vehicles as well
as this cheeky, go-getter of a turbo does”
Frank Markus, Motor Trend

BMW and PSA Peugeot Citro├źn continue to reap the rewards from their jointly developed 1.6-litre turbo petrol engine, which, having taken top honours in its category class once again, extends its winning dominance to four years. In winning this Award, perhaps the most notable thing is that this innovative German/ French collaboration has once again beaten the third-generation Toyota Prius hybrid.

Gabor Szecsenyi, from Russia’s Autoreview, was one of the judges who gave the Mini Cooper S heart top marks: “This engine is very usable even in its most powerful form. It’s a real two-in-one piece of engineering: flexible for everyday use, but super sporty on track days. A winning powertrain combination.”

Meanwhile, Italian-based journalist Lorenzo Facchinetti also awarded the BMW/PSA engine top marks: “The nice thing about the 1.6-litre turbo is that it retains its awesome character, despite what end application it’s used in.”

Featuring innovative stop/start technology on BMW models, jurors from all regions were once again won over by this powerful yet frugal motor, with points coming in from Asia, South America and North America, as well as Europe. “Few engines fit the character of their subcompact host vehicles as well as this cheeky, go-getter of a turbo does,” said Frank Markus, from Motor Trend in the USA.

Made from light alloy, the 175bhp unit, which powers not only the Cooper S but also the Mini Clubman and Peugeot 207 and 308 models, features a twin-scroll turbocharger, gasoline direct injection, twin overhead camshafts, roller-type drag arms that have been optimised for minimum friction, and hydraulic valve play-compensation elements.

All this means not only plenty of power – let’s not forget the 260Nm that is maintained from 1,500rpm to 5,000rpm – but also an average fuel consumption of 6.9 l/100km (40.9mpg) for non-stop/start engines.













Results
points
1. BMW-PSA 1.6-litre Turbo (MINI Cooper S, Clubman Cooper S, Peugeot 207, 308, MINI JCW, Clubman JCW) 268

2. Toyota Hybrid 1.8-litre (Prius, Auris) 185

3. Audi 1.8-litre TFSI (Audi A5, A4, A3, TT, Seat Leon, Altea/XL/Freetrack, Exeo, Skoda Octavia, Superb, Yeti, VW Passat, Passat CC) 133

4. Mercedes-Benz 1.8-litre Supercharged (CLC, C-Class, SLK, E-Class) 98

5. Alfa Romeo 1.7-litre DI Turbo (159, Brera, Spider, Giulietta) 84

6. Volkswagen 1.6-litre TDi (VW Polo, Jetta, Passat, Audi A3, Seat Ibiza, Seat Leon, Altea/XL/Freetrack) 61

Thursday, February 25, 2010

K&N Drop In filter

I added the K&N Drop in filter.... same one as BEHCW unit

I must say that I cannot feel any difference in acceleration. However, when I let off the throttle, the drag seems to be lesser. The car still rolls more than before. Less drag.... That is how I feel the difference...

Sunday, January 24, 2010

K&N Drop in filter

I just ordered the K&N Drop in filter for the 308 turbo from Ebay.....

Paid 47 British pounds for it....

Can't wait for it to come and test if there is any difference..

Saturday, January 2, 2010

Some car myths just won't disappear

By Kelsey Mays, Cars.Com

Young drivers often become the victims of myths -- from bad maintenance advice to mistaken safety tips. Here are 10 common misconceptions among young drivers and what to do instead. To you older drivers: No one's watching, so feel free to take a peek.

Maintenance
Myth No. 1: Change your oil every 3,000 miles. Various service stations advertised the 3,000-mile oil change for years, making believers of many of us. While it doesn't hurt to change the oil that often, it's a waste of money in most cases.
Modern vehicles generally recommend an oil change every 7,500 miles -- more than twice the distance those service station ads warn you about. The best advice is to follow the recommended schedule in your car's owner's manual.

Myth No. 2: Vehicles that require regular fuel benefit from a tank of premium gasoline once in a while. Years ago, leaded gas and high-compression engines demanded the occasional tank of premium gas, which included detergents to clean out fuel injectors. Today, the Environmental Protection Agency requires detergents in every grade of gas. Stick with your vehicle's recommended octane level and you'll get adequate detergents .

Myth No. 3: Keep your dashboard and tires shiny by frequently wiping them with protectant compounds.

Dashboards gather dust and tires lose their shine; it's inevitable with use. Frequent use of various protectant compounds, however, can do more harm than good. Some experts say cleaners cause the dashboard material to dry out or age faster. Also, tires become discolored as a side effect of their built-in chemicals, according to Bill Vandewater, of Bridgestone/Firestone North American Tire. Aftermarket shiners can restore a tire's color, but they strip the tire of its original protectants. Vandewater says that over time, cracks form in the rubber. As an alternative, he suggests using mild soap and water with a good brush.

Driving
Myth No. 4: It's best to drive cars with automatic transmissions around town in ``3" -- or in ``D" with the overdrive button off -- and save ``D" for the highway.
The original idea was that drivers needed to lock out the highest gear for more responsive performance in stop-and-go driving. Most modern vehicles employ transmissions that are quick to kick down into a lower gear, so driving without the topmost gear around town only lowers gas mileage.

Myth No. 5: It's best to shift an automatic transmission into neutral at red lights.

This myth stems from the idea that keeping the transmission in drive while stepping on the brake wastes fuel and causes unnecessary wear on the driveline. In fact, actual engine wear and fuel loss are minimal.

Shopping
Myth No. 6: Luxury nameplates are the be-all and end-all.
Luxury brands have better resale values than their garden-variety counterparts, but they also tend to cost more. In a level playing field, the difference is often slight. According to Kelley Blue Book, a 1999 Infiniti G20 fetches only $210 more at trade-in than a similarly priced 1999 Nissan Altima. Also consider repair bills, which tend to be higher for luxury brands. Still worth it? You decide.

Safety
Myth No. 7: Talking on a hands-free headset while driving is a safe alternative to holding a cell phone. Here are the facts: The National Highway Traffic Safety Administration estimates that one in 12 18- to 24-year-olds on the road at any given time is also on a cell phone. One-quarter of all police-reported accidents are caused by driver distraction, and cell phones play a significant role. In fact, the risk of collision can be four times higher when driving and talking on a phone, according to a 1997 study in the New England Journal of Medicine. The culprit isn't holding a cell phone or one-armed driving; it's taking your mind off the task at hand: safely piloting 3,000 pounds of steel to your intended destination. A headset does nothing to mitigate this; pull over or put it away. Enough said.
Myth No. 8: You don't have to wear a seat belt when you're sitting in the back seat.

Rae Tyson, NHTSA chief of media relations, warns of two risks that unbelted backseat passengers incur: First, they're unable to take full advantage of the vehicle's safety features, and accidents -- especially rollovers -- put them at high risk. Second, they become projectiles toward others during the collision, increasing the likelihood of injury among fellow occupants.

Myth No. 9: Keep your doors unlocked so rescuers can get you out after an accident.

No. Eric Bolton, media relations specialist at NHTSA, warns that unlocked doors are more likely to open during a collision and allow occupant ejection -- and ejections kill 10,000 people each year.

Myth No. 10: For maximum air bag protection, reposition everything.

Let's set the record straight: The NHTSA advises that the steering wheel should be aimed at your breastbone, positioned at least 10 inches away and tilted away from your head. But watch out, as a low-slung wheel prompts one-armed driving with the hand draped over the top of the wheel; in a collision, the air bag can shatter that arm from below. Remember to keep your hands on the wheel at the 9 o'clock and 3 o'clock positions, with the seatback upright and the wheel 10 inches from your chest. It might not be comfortable at first, but you'll get used to it -- and some day it could save your life.

Friday, January 1, 2010

Why is it so important to change the engine oil regularly?

The primary function of the engine oil is to lubricate the engine’s internal moving parts. In order for the oil to fulfill this function it has to posses certain properties. As these properties diminish over time and distance it is essential to replace the engine oil periodically in order to maintain reliable engine lubrication. During combustion soot and gases are produced which leak past the piston rings into the crankcase. Modern oils are designed to absorb these by-products and keep them suspended to prevent the formation of sludge deposits. Ultimately the oil will become saturated and it will loose its ability to do the jobs it is intended to do. Since engine oil is a cocktail of base oil, synthetic or mineral, which is enhanced with chemicals, it is inevitable that the strain of heat, oxygen and impurities will graduyally reduce its ability to meet the engine’s demands. In the early stages of deterioration some excessive wear may occur which will probably go unnoticed to start with. Poor lubrication over a long period will lead to premature engine failure. Engine oil left in the engine for a very long time will ultimately coagulate and lead to sudden engine failure. Our advice is never to exceed the oil change intervals and to use the oil recommended by the car’s manufacturer. The oil specified may vary for different climatic conditions. Oil change intervalls vary for different operating conditions.